From the top of the ridge, the view is stunning. At one’s feet, a sheer green precipice that, after a drop the height of a skyscraper, levels to sand, surf, and sea until, on the horizon, again up jut the mountains to snag the clouds. If only one could lean into the updraft and soar off to spiral with the birds, riding the air currents, surveying this wide domain like an ancient god of old.

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Well, now you can, if you have enough courage or, some might say, too little gray matter. Paragliding is your ticket to the heavens, and Costa Rica’s central and south Pacific coast is an ideal spot to give it a try.

Sounds good, you might say, but what exactly is involved?

A paragliding rig consists basically of a wing, that is, a material canopy that resembles a parachute, connected via a series of ropes to an allegedly super-comfortable harness seat. The ropes can be manipulated in order to change the shape and edge of the wing, which, combined with one’s deliberate shifting and leaning in the harness seat, make it possible to accelerate, decelerate, and move in different directions.

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The critical component in paragliding is rising air, basically from two sources: thermals and ridge lifts. Thermals are vertical columns of heated air over natural geographic features, parking lots or large buildings warmed by the sun.

Ridge lifts occur when winds are tossed skyward upon encountering a vertical barrier such as an escarpment, hill or outcropping. Ridge lift is technically easer to ride than are thermals, and it is even possible to land back at the launch site, something that is much more difficult to manage with thermal riding.

Turbulence around the outer edge of thermals needs to be skillfully managed, for it can cause the wing to collapse, although with enough altitude, wings do self-correct. Still, most paragliding rigs include a reserve wing attached to the harness, just in case.

An experienced paragliding pilot can navigate from thermal to thermal for what is known as cross-country flying, occasionally traveling long distances in the process.

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Costa Rica boasts as many as 100 paragliding enthusiasts, many of whom are members of the Costa Rica Association for Free Flight, known also by its Spanish acronym Asovueli.

While excellent paragliding spots can be found throughout Costa Rica’s varied terrain, Caldera has become something of a headquarters, with an excellent launch spot that’s easy to get to by car, and a reportedly very easy landing spot immediately below. Three sets of cliffs provide the updrafts for riding, and the scenery is gorgeous.

Jacó, Quepos, and Parrita are other popular spots for flying, with well-established lifts and thermals with names such as “Stairway to Heaven” and “Red Frog.” Dominical is an up-and-coming paragliding spot that features the 12-kilometer-long Tinamastes Ridge with enough updraft to make any paragliding aficionado swoon with longing.

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Intrepid adventurers who think they might be up for watching the world fall away under their feet can receive the necessary training at Dedalus Fun & Sport, which often arranges for tandem flights–basically piggy-backing an experienced pilot–as a way for the curious or prudent to taste the thrill without the skill. Regular and power paragliding, in which a motor is to keep the wing afloat, can be arranged at the Timarai Bamboo Resort near Parrita.

But one need not even participate in the flying to share in the exhilaration of paragliding, as Sean McGraw learned one recent afternoon. “I was having my lunch, and I glanced out the window of my office at the hills that rise up behind the beach when all of a sudden this guy just flies off the side of the cliff and rises out over the water, dangling from a bright orange parachute… it was absolutely thrilling!”

Sean, an avid surfer who figures he’ll probably remain earthbound for the time being, was nevertheless swept up by the experience. “I had a smile on my face the rest of the day,” he says. “It just confirmed what a cool place I live in.”

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Written by Lois M. Smith

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